The neckline is worked back and forth over 6 rows, working the raglan increases before and after each raglan marker and also working M1 increases at the neck edge. After 6 rows you'll then cast on additional stitches to complete the neck.

R1 (RS): k1, M1, [ k to last stitch before marker, kfb, sm, kfb ] 4 times, k to final 2 stitches, M1, k1
R2 (WS): purl all stitches

Work rows 1 and 2, 3 times (a total of 6 rows worked) until you have 86 stitches in total (9 on each front, 34 at the back, and 17 on each sleeve)

R7: k8, kfb, sm, kfb, k15, kfb, sm, kfb, k32, kfb, sm, kfb, k15, kfb, sm, kfb, k8, turn your work, KCO 8, place a distinctive marker to mark the center front point, KCO 8, turn back, and join for knitting in the round. The center front marker is now marking the start and end of your rounds.
You now have 110 stitches in total (18, 19, 36, 19, 18)

Now you will work down to the armpits, with raglan increases on every second round:
R8(RS): k all stitches
R9(RS): [ k to 1 st before marker, kfb, sm, kfb ] 4 times, k to center marker, sm

Work rounds 8 and 9, 17 times (a total of 34 rounds worked). Then work round 8 one more time. You now have 246 stitches in total (70 each for the front and back, and 53 on each sleeve).
You now have 246 stitches in total (70, 53, 70, 53)

On the next round (round 43): knit to the first sleeve marker, remove the marker and put the sleeve stitches on a holder. Use the knitted cast-on method to cast on 6, place a marker, use the knitted cast-on method to cast on 7. Join up to the stitches on the other side of the sleeve stitches and keep knitting. Repeat in reverse when you reach the next sleeve: cast on 7, place a marker, then cast on 6. Knit to the end of the round (41, 84, 41)

Work in stocking stitch for 98 rows in total, following instructions and adjustments below:

After row 141, work in k1p1 rib for 2.8cm.

Bind off in rib pattern and weave in ends.

Reset your row counter to zero - sleeve row counts will be given counting from the first sleeve round as round 1.

Put the live stitches for the left sleeve onto a circular needle. With the right needle tip, pick up and knit 6 stitches between the center of the underarm and the first stitch on the needle. Work across the stitches on the needle, then pick up and knit 7 stitches between the last stitch on the needle and the center of the underarm. Place a marker, join here and begin working in the round.

Work in stocking stitch for 104 rows in total, following instructions and adjustments below:

At the same time, on rows 1, 7, 13, 19, 25, 32, 38, 44, 50 : decrease by 1 stitch either side of the center marker.

At the same time, on rows 53 : decrease by 0 stitches before the center marker, and 1 stitch after the center marker.

At the same time, on rows 56, 62, 68, 74, 81, 87, 93, 99 : decrease by 1 stitch either side of the center marker.

Now is a great time to try on your sweater again and check the sleeve length. If your sleeve is too short, add a few more rounds before knitting the final ribbing. If it's too long, frog a few rounds before knitting the final ribbing. In either case, make a note so you remember to make the same adjustment to the second sleeve. Work k1p1 rib for 2.8cm. Bind off. Repeat for the other sleeve.

Starting at the right-front raglan seam, pick up stitches as follows: 11 stitches across the right sleeve, 28 stitches across the back, 11 stitches across the left sleeve, 7 stitches down the shaped portion of the left hand side of the neck, 16 across the straight portion in the center of the neck, and 7 stitches up the shaped portion of the right hand side of the neck. Work around the neckline in k1p1 rib for 6 rows. Bind off fairly loosely and weave in ends.