Measurements & options

This is a demonstration pattern, that's publicly available to all users. It cannot be edited.
Circular yoke pullover

Sizing

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Knitting gauge

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Custom shaping

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Pattern details

Teeny Tiny Yoke

Your notes

  • Yarn: Jamieson & Smith Jumper Weight
  • Needles: 3mm

You will need

  • A circular knitting needle of the size required to get your gauge of 27 stitches per 10.0cm and 32 rows per 10.0cm
  • A set of DPNs in the same size for knitting the sleeves (optional - you can use your circular needle and the magic loop method).
  • One circular and a set of DPNs in a size 0.5mm smaller than the main needle, for knitting the ribbing (optional - you can use the same needles, the ribbing will just be a little looser).
  • 5 stitch markers.

Abbreviations

  • k: knit
  • CO: cast on
  • BO: bind off
  • pm: place marker
  • sm: slip marker
  • kfb: Knit into the front and back of the stitch. (Instructions on vogueknitting.com)
  • M1: Use your left-hand needle to lift the yarn between the current and the next stitch from behind, then knit into the front of the loop to twist it.(Instructions on vogueknitting.com)
  • RS: Right side
  • WS: Wrong side
  • KCO: When casting on at the underarm or to complete a crew neck, use the knitted cast on: if you're at the end of a row or at an armpit cast-on, then turn your work first and work from the wrong side. Knit into the next stitch on the left-hand needle but do not drop it off the needle. Instead place the new loop onto the left-hand needle. Repeat for however many stitches you need to cast on. If at the end of a row or at an armpit cast-on, turn back to the right side before continuing. (Instructions on vogueknitting.com)

Neckline

Stitches in section: 64

Option 1: symmetrical neck

A 'symmetrical neck' is the same in the back as in the front. This is the simplest way to knit the neckline, but it can feel as if the front of the neck sits too high. Option 1 involves working a regular cast-on at the neck, then later picking up your cast-on stitches and knitting the neckline ribbing.

Cast on 22 stitches, place a marker and join for working in the round (being careful not to twist). Your stitch marker marks the back right shoulder.


Option 2: raised back neck

Option 2 involves doing a provisional cast-on, then later coming back and raising the back neck slightly with short rows, before knitting the neckline ribbing. This is a little more work, but it creates a neck that is lower in front and more comfortable to wear.

You can work your provisional cast-on any way you like, but I recommend the crochet hook cast-on method, where you use a crochet hook to create the cast-on stitches on your needle. If you need a tutorial on that method I highly recommend these instructions (with video) by Clare Mountain.

Using waste yarn, create 22 stitches on your knitting needle using your crochet hook. Start working into these stitches with your project yarn, and at the end of the first row place a marker and join for working in the round, being careful not to twist. Your stitch marker marks the back right shoulder.


Initial neck shaping (work this section for both options)

R0 (Setup round): k22

R1: [ k2, M1 ] 10 times, k2

You now have 32 stitches.

Yoke shaping

Stitches in section: 944

In this section you will knit your four colourwork sections, from the neck down to the armpit point. Scroll down to find your chart blanks and fill them in with your colourwork designs before you start.

Section 1 (rounds 2 to 4)

Work 2 rounds of chart 1. On round 4, increase by 16 stitches by increasing as follows:
[ k2, M1 ] 16 times (48 total stitches)

Section 2 (rounds 5 to 8)

Work 4 rounds of chart 2. On round 8, increase by 16 stitches by increasing as follows:
[ k3, M1 ] 16 times (64 total stitches)

Section 3 (rounds 9 to 12)

Work 4 rounds of chart 3. On round 12, increase by 16 stitches by increasing as follows:
[ k4, M1 ] 16 times (80 total stitches)

Section 4 (rounds 13 to 17)

Work 5 rounds of chart 4.

Separate sleeves

Stitches in section: 86

On the next round (round 18) , knit 24 stitches across the back of the sweater , place 16 sleeve stitches onto a holder , KCO 2, pm, KCO 1

Join up to the front body stitches on the other side of the sleeve and knit 24 stitches across the front , place 16 sleeve stitches onto a holder , KCO 1, pm, KCO 2, join up to the back body stitches on the other side of the sleeve and continue knitting in the round. , The right hand side seam marker now marks the start & end of your rounds.

Tip!
Not sure about separating your sleeves? Here is a handy video tutorial by Babs of Yarn Academy that will show you how!

Work body

Stitches in section: 972

Work in stocking stitch for 10 rounds in total.

After row 28, work in k1p1 rib for 2.5cm.

Bind off in rib pattern and weave in ends.

Bind off, and weave in ends.

Work sleeves

Stitches in section: 408 (per sleeve)

Reset your row counter to zero - sleeve row counts will be given counting from the first sleeve round as round 1.

Put the live stitches for the left sleeve onto a circular needle. With the right needle tip, pick up and knit 1 stitches between the center of the underarm and the first stitch on the needle. Work across the stitches on the needle, then pick up and knit 2 stitches between the last stitch on the needle and the center of the underarm. Place a marker, join here and begin working in the round.

Work in stocking stitch for 16 rows in total, following instructions and adjustments below:


At the same time, on rows 1 : decrease by 1 stitch either side of the center marker.


At the same time, on rows 9 : decrease by 0 stitches before the center marker, and 1 stitch after the center marker.


Now is a great time to try on your sweater again and check the sleeve length. If your sleeve is too short, add a few more rounds before knitting the final ribbing. If it's too long, frog a few rounds before knitting the final ribbing. In either case, make a note so you remember to make the same adjustment to the second sleeve. Work k1p1 rib for 2.5cm. Bind off. Repeat for the other sleeve.

Neckline finishing (option 1, symmetrical neck)

Stitches in section: 176

Pick up 22 stitches evenly around the cast-on edge of the neckline.

For the next 8 rounds: [ k1, p1 ] 11 times

Bind off loosely in rib. For a very stretchy edge try Jeny's surprisingly stretchy bind-off, or for an extra polished finish try a tubular bind-off.

Neckline finishing (option 2, raised back neck)

Stitches in section: 330

Unpick the crochet chain from your provisional cast on, and slide the 22 stitches onto a circular needle. Re-arrange your stitches if necessary so that your start of round is at the top of the right shoulder (as worn). Place a start-of round marker.

R1: Knit 5 stitches, wrap the next stitch, and turn.
R2: Purl -1 stitches, wrap the next stitch, and turn
R3: Knit -7 stitches, wrap the next stitch, and turn.
R4: Purl -13 stitches, wrap the next stitch, and turn
R5: Knit -19 stitches, wrap the next stitch, and turn.
R6: Purl -25 stitches, wrap the next stitch, and turn
R7: Knit one round even, working the wraps together with the wrapped stitches.

For the next 8 rounds: [ k1, p1 ] 11 times

Bind off loosely in rib. For a very stretchy edge try Jeny's surprisingly stretchy bind-off, or for an extra polished finish try a tubular bind-off.

Image

12347.1cm19 stitches6.0cm16 stitches6.0cm19 rows5.0cm16 rows20.0cm54 stitches8.1cm/22 stitches5.2cm17 rows20.0cm54 stitches20.0cm54 stitches

Charts

Yoke band 1 is 32 stitches around and 2 rows deep. You have 3 options for stitch pattern widths: 16 repeats x 2 stitches wide , 8 repeats x 4 stitches wide , 4 repeats x 8 stitches wide

Yoke band 2 is 48 stitches around and 4 rows deep. You have 6 options for stitch pattern widths: 24 repeats x 2 stitches wide , 16 repeats x 3 stitches wide , 12 repeats x 4 stitches wide , 8 repeats x 6 stitches wide , 6 repeats x 8 stitches wide , 4 repeats x 12 stitches wide

Yoke band 3 is 64 stitches around and 4 rows deep. You have 3 options for stitch pattern widths: 32 repeats x 2 stitches wide , 16 repeats x 4 stitches wide , 8 repeats x 8 stitches wide

Yoke band 4 is 80 stitches around and 5 rows deep. You have 6 options for stitch pattern widths: 40 repeats x 2 stitches wide , 20 repeats x 4 stitches wide , 16 repeats x 5 stitches wide , 10 repeats x 8 stitches wide , 8 repeats x 10 stitches wide , 4 repeats x 20 stitches wide

Want to use Stitch Fiddle to design your charts?

Stitch Fiddle is an online stitch pattern editor where you can pick your colours and design your colourwork motifs, and although they have an excellent pro version you can use it for free and without even needing an account! It's a great way to work on your designs.

Just below each of the select boxes below you'll find an "open in Stitch Fiddle" link. This will open Stitch Fiddle in a new browser window or tab, with a blank chart that has the width & height of what you have selected in the select box.

Want to print your charts & design with pens & pencils?

You can select a blank for each yoke band here. Then click here to print out this section, and design your colourwork patterns on the printout! Tip: print in landscape orientation.

Open in Stitch Fiddle Open in Stitch Fiddle Open in Stitch Fiddle Open in Stitch Fiddle

Please note

Kniterator patterns are intended for personal use. Please do not reproduce or sell a pattern generated by Kniterator. If you are a designer and want to use Kniterator as a way to provide your own designs in a customisable format to your customers, then we have a designers platform coming soon to enable that. If you want to sell garments knit from a Kniterator pattern, then I ask that you please credit Kniterator for the pattern.